Honest Wine: Are Sulfites & Tannins Giving Me Headaches?
I am often asked what my favorite wine is. My answer surprises most people. The expectation is that I will enlighten the listener on why I believe a very specific type, let’s say Chardonnay, is the best. It turns out, that my true favorite is a style of wine: chillable, fruit-forward reds. They are easy to sip, crowd-pleasing, versatile, and great with just about any meal. The best part? I always seem to feel amazing after I consume that style. Could it have something to do with sulfites and tannins? Let’s explore…
While I generally love romancing wine as a mysterious and beautiful art, science wins when it comes to topics like sulfites and tannins. I personally love Jamie Goode’s, The Science of Wine, as a reference for this discussion. Jamie has a PhD in plant biology and is a highly decorated wine writer.
Why are sulfites used anyway?
First and foremost it’s important to note that all wines have naturally occurring sulfites. Even if no sulfur dioxide is added, some sulfites will still be present in the wine because it is a byproduct of fermentation (that magical process of converting grapes into wine).
Why would a winemaker decide to add sulfites? In The Science of Wine, Goode refers to SO2 as “a chemical custodian of wine quality”. Without some sulfur dioxide, the wine may be at risk for oxidation (that nasty vinegar smell you may have experienced) or unwanted spoilage. It is so important to keep wine stable and tidied up. I have tasted several wines with an offputting FUNK because sulfur dioxide was not included in the winemaking… it ain’t pretty. And honestly, this method goes back to the Roman times to prevent spoilage in food. It is important to note; however, Goode suggests not using an abundant amount of SO2 for wine quality but rather using it smarter and getting the ratio just right. Everything in moderation, right?
Sulfites, lead suspect for headaches
In the 1980s, the FDA realized that highly asthmatic individuals were sensitive to sulfites. Even though this is a very small percentage of the population, the reaction can be life-threatening and therefore it became required to put ‘Contains Sulfites’ on the label. Fast forward to the present day, that little sulfite tidbit is often the ONLY chemical disclosure on the label making it an obvious suspect for consumers to blame headaches on. And maybe you are sensitive to them! But first assess whether you have reactions to foods like french fries, dried fruit, and deli meats. Those foods tend to have much higher amounts of sulfites. If you don’t feel queasy and stuffed up after consuming a handful of dried apricots, you most likely are not allergic to sulfites. But even still, I am not going to put a hard line in the sand and claim sulfites don’t cause headaches. All of our bodies are uniquely designed and it’s not fair for me to assume you react a certain way.
Also, maybe you are just thinking… sulfites, I’m just not that into you
If you are trying to be more conscious of additives in the products you consume, I get it! If you are seeking wines with lower sulfites, red wines can typically get by with less. Additionally, Goode notes less SO2 is needed if you are starting with good grapes in the first place. Back to my point about how regions and vineyard quality matter! Are you looking for no added sulfites whatsoever? Gerard Bertrand has been making rosé without added sulfites for quite some time and is sold in many mainstream grocery stores. Lastly, natural wines will largely be in the camp of no added sulfites as well. More on that topic later.
What are tannins and this thing called quercetin?
So if my headaches are most likely not impacted by sulfites, what else is potentially going on in my glass of wine?
Tannins, present in skins, seeds, and oak barrels are that grippy component in wines creating a dry sensation in the mouth. They are arguably the most famous group of flavor chemicals, also known as polyphenols. Full-bodied, complex red wines often have rich tannins from longer contact with the skins and oak barrels.
Another less widely known phenolic compound is quercetin. Found in the skins of grapes, they act as sunscreen for grapes protecting against UV rays.
Another round of suspects…
For years, we’ve all wondered if tannins are responsible for headaches. What else has tannins? Interestingly, black teas. If you do not have reactions after sipping a rich black tea, maybe it’s not the tannins after all. Recent research by UC Davis seems to believe it may be the flavanol, quercetin, that is to blame for our headaches instead. Grapes grown in exceptionally sunny locations like Napa Valley, may be higher in quercetin. If you are concerned about this, possibly be more in tune with how you feel after sipping a wine with grapes sourced from exceptionally warm and sunny locations. Research and science are helping us get closer to solving headaches from wine; however, there is certainly still quite a bit of mystery on this topic.
What if I don’t want to risk excessive sulfites, tannins, or quercetin??
Red wines typically need less sulfites for stabilization. BUT, some red wines tend to have higher tannins. Quercetin is present in reds from warm locations like Napa Valley. A potential solution for those who are especially headache-prone? Back to those chillable, friendly reds I mentioned at the beginning. Rosé also falls into this bucket. Subconsciously, I am likely gravitating toward this style since I often feel the best after sipping. Bonus: they pair well with so many meals.
Try some light to medium-bodied, less tannic, fruitier reds from these areas:
Rosé from Provence, France
Cab Franc from Loire Valley, France
Gamay from Beaujolais, France
Grenache from Cotes du Rhone, France
Barbera, Bardolino, Schiava, Frappato from Northern Italy
Etna Rosso from Sicily
Zweigelt from Austria
Spätburgunder from Germany
Pinot Noir from Oregon
Red wines from Finger Lakes, NY
Report back on how you feel. Stay curious friends! XX, Kris
